Launched in 1950, Evyan's Golden Shadows is a fragrance deeply evocative of its name, which draws inspiration from the estate of Baron Westport, Connecticut. The estate, aptly named Golden Shadows, reflects the enchanting effect of the late New England sun as it cast its golden hues upon the summer home. This picturesque imagery of soft, golden light and tranquil shadows perfectly encapsulates the essence of the perfume.
The name Golden Shadows conjures a range of emotions and images, from the warmth and elegance of a sun-drenched summer afternoon to the serene and comforting ambiance of twilight. It evokes a sense of timeless beauty and sophisticated tranquility, suggesting both a moment of reflection and an air of understated luxury.
In the context of the 1950s, a decade marked by a fascination with elegance and opulence, Golden Shadows stood out with its spicy, sweet floral profile. The perfume's composition—a blend of floral notes with a powdery, resinous drydown—fit well within the trends of the era, which favored rich and complex fragrances. During this time, many perfumes were characterized by their heavy, luxurious scents, often featuring elaborate floral and spicy notes. Golden Shadows aligned with these trends while also introducing a distinctive blend that reflected a refined, yet approachable elegance.
Evyan’s choice to name their fragrance after a place so imbued with golden, fleeting beauty underscores their intent to create a perfume that resonates with both nostalgia and sophistication. The name Golden Shadows thus not only evokes a rich visual and emotional landscape but also situates the fragrance within a broader context of post-war luxury and innovation in the perfume industry.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy, sweet floral fragrance for women with a powdery, resinous drydown.
- Top notes: neroli, aldehydes, bergamot, galbanum, orange, coriander, clove, cardamom
- Middle notes: carnation, lily of the valley, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, nutmeg, cinnamon
- Base notes: iris, heliotrope, frankincense, myrrh, vanilla, cedar, ambergris, benzoin, orris, vetiver, sandalwood, civet, musk, oakmoss
As you first inhale, the fresh, floral aroma of neroli greets you with a vibrant, slightly green citrus scent. Its delicate, sweet, and honeyed floral quality is invigorating, creating an uplifting and fresh introduction. Aldehydes create a sparkling, effervescent sensation, adding a bright, soapy freshness that subtly enhances the other top notes. They give a clean, airy quality with a hint of metallic brilliance, often associated with classic, elegant fragrances. A burst of bergamot introduces a lively, tangy citrus note, reminiscent of freshly peeled oranges. Its zesty, slightly bitter quality balances the sweetness, providing a refreshing and crisp opening.
The green, resinous scent of galbanum adds an earthy, vegetal note with a hint of bitterness. Its rich, green aroma evokes the lushness of nature and contributes a sophisticated depth to the fragrance. The sweet, juicy aroma of orange mingles with the other top notes, offering a warm, fruity sweetness that adds a cheerful and sunny character to the fragrance’s opening.
Coriander introduces a warm, slightly citrusy aroma with a hint of nuttiness. It adds a subtle, aromatic complexity that enhances the fragrance's spicy aspect. The rich, warm scent of clove provides a bold, spicy kick with its slightly sweet, peppery undertones. Its deep, aromatic intensity brings a comforting warmth to the fragrance. A sweet, aromatic spice, cardamom contributes a creamy, slightly resinous note with a hint of citrus. Its complex, spicy-sweet aroma adds an exotic touch and depth to the top notes.
The heart of the fragrance reveals the rich, spicy floral aroma of carnation. Its sweet, clove-like scent adds a warm, peppery depth with a slightly sweet, rosy undertone. Lily of the Valley's delicate floral note provides a fresh, green, and slightly sweet fragrance, reminiscent of springtime blooms. Its light, airy quality adds a touch of innocence and purity to the bouquet.
The classic, deep, and romantic scent of rose emerges with its lush, velvety petals. Its rich, sweet, and slightly spicy aroma adds a timeless elegance to the fragrance. The intoxicating, heady aroma of jasmine envelops you with its sweet, floral richness. Its creamy, warm scent lends an opulent and sensual quality to the heart of the fragrance. The exotic, floral sweetness of ylang-ylang introduces a creamy, tropical scent with hints of banana and spice. Its lush, fruity floral aroma adds a sensual and exotic touch.
Nutmeg's warm, spicy note provides a sweet, slightly woody aroma with a hint of warmth. Its aromatic complexity enriches the fragrance, adding a comforting and spicy depth. The warm, sweet, and spicy scent of cinnamon brings a cozy, comforting feel. Its rich, aromatic warmth complements the floral notes and adds a festive touch to the heart of the fragrance.
The luxurious, powdery aroma of iris unfolds with its soft, violet-like scent. Its creamy, smooth texture adds a refined elegance and a velvety quality to the fragrance's drydown. The delicate, powdery aroma of orris (iris root) offers a subtle, sophisticated sweetness with a hint of floral elegance. Its creamy, smooth scent adds an opulent and refined touch. Heliotrope offers a sweet, almond-like fragrance with a soft, powdery undertone. Its delicate, creamy scent adds a hint of sweetness and an airy, ethereal quality.
The resinous, smoky aroma of frankincense adds a rich, warm, and slightly spicy depth. Its ancient, mystical scent contributes a sacred and contemplative quality to the base. With its deep, resinous, and slightly balsamic scent, myrrh adds a warm, comforting richness. Its complex aroma enhances the fragrance’s depth with a hint of sweetness and earthiness.
The sweet, creamy aroma of vanilla envelops you with its warm, comforting scent. Its rich, sugary quality adds a luscious, smooth sweetness to the base notes. With its sweet, balsamic, and resinous aroma, benzoin adds a rich, warm, and comforting quality. Its soothing, vanilla-like scent complements the other base notes. The creamy, soft, and woody aroma of sandalwood brings a warm, smooth, and slightly sweet quality. Its rich, enduring scent adds a luxurious and comforting base.
The woody, dry scent of cedar introduces a sharp, resinous quality. Its aromatic, earthy aroma brings a grounding, natural depth to the base of the fragrance. The earthy, woody aroma of vetiver introduces a deep, smoky quality with a hint of green. Its rich, grounded scent adds a complex, earthy depth to the base. The earthy, woody scent of oakmoss adds a rich, green, and slightly smoky quality. Its natural, forest-like aroma contributes a grounding, organic touch to the fragrance’s drydown.
The rich, warm, and slightly marine scent of ambergris adds a complex, animalic depth. Its sweet, resinous quality provides a luxurious and enigmatic finish to the fragrance. The musky, animalic aroma of civet adds a bold, sensual depth. Its complex, slightly sweet scent enhances the fragrance’s richness and adds a touch of exotic allure. The soft, warm, and sensual aroma of musk provides a subtle, lingering depth. Its smooth, slightly animalic scent adds a sensual, enveloping quality to the base.
Bottles:
c1954 ad
The New Yorker, 1950:
"Evyan, evidently contemplating the phenomenal success of her White Shoulders, decided to produce a first-cousin ... more nonchalant mien, and the result is Golden Shadows, which comes in a Christmassy bottle shaped like a bell."
Glass Packer, 1951:
"LUXURIOUS-LOOKING bell-shaped bottles display Golden Shadows, latest fragrance of Parfums Evyan. Ground glass stopper has a similar inverted bell design. Matching cologne bottle has metal screw closure."
Pacific Drug Review, 1951:
"GOLDEN SHADOWS Parfums Evyan New York, N. Y. Golden Shadows is a new perfume and cologne fragrance ... The perfume is packaged in 1/2 oz, l oz and 2 oz bell-shaped bottles with ground glass stoppers of inverted bell design."
Harper's Bazaar, 1957:
"Fragrance in a mist — that's the news from Evyan right now — and welcome as the flowers of spring. Her lovely, fluted glass decanters of cologne now come equipped with their own atomizers so that their precious scent can be diffused lightly, delicately. (Which is after all, the only correct way to apply fragrance-in a soft, subtle breeze, not a head reeling dollop ... "Golden Shadows" is a modern abstraction, a beautiful balance of the perfumer's art."
Beauty as a Career, 1969:
"Golden Shadows is for the connoisseur, the woman who has everything. It has been described as the Champagne of fragrances, closer to sable than to mink, to emeralds than to diamonds."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1950, Golden Shadows by Evyan quickly became a beloved fragrance for its sophisticated blend of spicy, sweet florals and a powdery, resinous finish. Despite its initial popularity, Golden Shadows was eventually discontinued, with the precise date of its discontinuation remaining unknown. By 1969, however, the fragrance was still available, indicating its lasting appeal even as the perfume market evolved.
Golden Shadows epitomized the mid-20th century’s fascination with complex, layered scents that combined traditional floral elements with modern twists. Its spicy, sweet floral composition, highlighted by a harmonious blend of top notes like neroli, aldehydes, and bergamot, set the stage for a fragrance that was both vibrant and elegant. As the scent developed, the heart revealed rich floral notes of carnation, jasmine, and rose, interwoven with warm spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg.
The base notes, with their deep, resinous qualities, included a captivating mixture of vanilla, sandalwood, and ambergris, providing a luxurious and enduring finish. This combination of spicy and sweet with a powdery, resinous drydown captured the essence of an era where opulence and complexity in fragrances were highly valued.
Even in its later years, Golden Shadows maintained a presence in the perfume industry, reflecting its enduring charm and the timeless elegance that Evyan sought to convey. Although the fragrance is no longer available, its legacy continues to resonate with those who remember it as a hallmark of 1950s sophistication.
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