White Shoulders by Evyan c1940

White Shoulders, launched by Evyan in 1940, is a fragrance steeped in elegance and evocative of a particular moment in social history. The name "White Shoulders" is said to have been inspired by a compliment given to Lady Evyan during a dinner party. A guest, admiring her off-the-shoulder evening gown, remarked on her "beautiful white shoulders." Alternatively, another account suggests that the Duke of Marlborough raised his glass in a toast, celebrating "the whitest shoulders I have ever seen." Regardless of the exact source, these anecdotes underscore the perfume’s association with grace and refined beauty.

The term "White Shoulders" evokes imagery of sophistication and understated luxury. The phrase conjures a sense of purity and classic elegance, aligning with the allure of a woman dressed in formal evening attire. For women of the time, the name would have resonated with ideals of feminine grace and high social standing. It suggested a sense of timeless beauty and a certain exclusivity, appealing to those who sought to embody these attributes.

Launched in the early 1940s, White Shoulders was introduced during a period when floral fragrances for women were highly popular. The fragrance industry of that era was dominated by rich, complex scents that often featured floral notes. White Shoulders distinguished itself with a composition that began with a fresh floral top, evolved into a multi-faceted floral heart, and settled into a feminine, subdued, powdery base. While it shared the floral focus common to the period, its refined and layered approach helped it stand out as a classic and sophisticated choice among contemporary offerings.

The perfume's success can be attributed to its alignment with the prevailing trends of the time, combined with its unique appeal to the sensibilities of an era that prized elegance and subtlety in fragrance.

c1948 ad

In the mid-1930s, Austrian Baron Walter Langer von Langendorff and his British-born wife, Evelyn Diane Westall, known as Lady Evyan, made a bold entrance into the perfume industry. With a vision to challenge the dominance of French perfume houses, they launched the Evyan perfume line in New York. The Baron, a distinguished chemist with a deep affection for his wife, named their fragrance house in her honor. The venture quickly expanded into a holding company, encompassing Dr. Walter Langer Co., Westall, Westfall, Estall, Felice Co., and Hartnell. Their aim was clear: to craft a perfume specifically for American women, free from the pretensions often associated with French fragrances.

The Langers were dedicated to producing every aspect of their fragrance, including packaging, within the United States. They approached the art of perfumery with a commitment to excellence, utilizing only the finest ingredients. This dedication culminated in the creation of White Shoulders, a perfume that became emblematic of their vision.

White Shoulders represents a masterful fusion of over 800 carefully selected floral and complementary notes, creating a fragrance that is both complex and captivating. As the archetype of the multi-floral perfume concept, it exemplifies the artistry of blending numerous ingredients into a harmonious whole. Crafted entirely in the United States, from its inception to its packaging, White Shoulders stands as a testament to American innovation in the perfume industry.

The fragrance itself is a sophisticated tapestry of floral notes, each chosen for its ability to enhance and complement the others. This exquisite blend not only showcases the depth and versatility of floral fragrances but also marks a significant achievement in perfume creation, reflecting both the creativity and meticulous attention to detail that went into its development. With its roots firmly planted in American craftsmanship, White Shoulders offers a refined alternative to French perfume traditions, making it a unique and cherished scent in the world of perfumery.

c1946 ad

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh floral top, followed by a multi faceted floral heart, resting on a feminine, subdued, powdery floral base.

A sublime mix of 800 floral and other extraordinarily attractive compatible notes. The prototype of the multiple flower perfume concept, totally created, bottled and packaged in the United States.

• Top notes: neroli, aldehydes, leafy green notes, peach, bergamot
• Middle notes: tuberose, clove bud, gardenia, lily of the valley, lilac, narcissus, jasmine, orris, rose 
• Base notes: sandalwood, civet, oakmoss, amber, benzoin, musk

Scent Profile:

The top notes of White Shoulders present a fresh, inviting prelude to the fragrance. As you first encounter this scent, the effervescent neroli captures your senses with its bright, citrusy sparkle, mingling with the zesty, almost soapy freshness of aldehydes. This initial burst is complemented by leafy green notes, which introduce a crisp, verdant quality that feels both invigorating and natural. The sweetness of ripe peach adds a luscious, fruity dimension, while the bergamot imparts a subtle, tangy brightness that enhances the overall freshness of the opening.

Transitioning into the heart of White Shoulders, you’re greeted by a rich bouquet of floral notes. The creamy, intoxicating scent of tuberose envelops you with its opulent, waxy aroma, creating a sense of elegance and sophistication. Clove bud adds a warm, spicy nuance that beautifully contrasts with the lush, velvety gardenia, which brings a creamy, slightly green facet to the composition. Lily of the valley introduces a delicate, ethereal sweetness, while lilac contributes a soft, powdery floralcy. Narcissus and jasmine deepen the complexity with their heady, floral richness, the former with its green, earthy undertones and the latter with its intoxicating, exotic allure. Orris lends a refined, silky quality with its buttery, almost violet-like fragrance, and rose rounds out the heart with its timeless, romantic scent, offering a classic, rosy sweetness.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes of White Shoulders provide a warm, sensual finish. Sandalwood contributes a creamy, woody richness that grounds the fragrance, creating a smooth, almost creamy texture. Civet adds an intriguing animalic nuance, subtly enhancing the scent with its musky, deep undertones. Oakmoss introduces a touch of earthy, forest-like complexity, giving the fragrance a more grounded, natural feel. Amber imparts a rich, resinous warmth that envelops the wearer in a golden glow, while benzoin adds a sweet, balsamic richness. Finally, musk provides a lingering, sensual base, enhancing the overall fragrance with its soft, animalic warmth. The combination of these base notes creates a lasting, memorable impression, leaving a soft, powdery floral trail.

Bottles:

A 1947 advertisement for White Shoulders charmingly invited consumers to "Keep the Exciting Shadow of Romance Ever Over Your White Shoulders," a sentiment that perfectly encapsulated the perfume's allure and sophistication. The advertisement highlighted the exquisite presentation of the fragrance, which was housed in elegantly etched bottles and presented in luxurious lace and satin bandboxes.

The price range of $3.00 to $110.00 reflected the perfume's broad appeal and the variety of packaging options available. Collectors today may still encounter these original presentation boxes, which feature a round peachy-pink rayon satin and Chantilly lace design. The lace motif pays a graceful tribute to Lady Evyan's signature off-the-shoulder evening gowns and her cherished collection of heirloom laces. This delicate and stylish packaging not only underscored the perfume’s luxurious nature but also reinforced its connection to Lady Evyan’s personal elegance and refined taste.

c1949 ad

Fate of the Fragrance:

The resounding success of White Shoulders marked a significant milestone, proving that American perfume companies could rival their French counterparts in terms of quality and appeal. Initially marketed under the name Parfums Hartnell, an early moniker for Evyan, White Shoulders quickly gained prominence and established its reputation in the competitive fragrance market.

Evyan also operated under the name Evelyn Westall Company of New York in its early years, further solidifying its presence in the industry. In 1948, the company, known as Estall, expanded its offerings with a new fragrance, continuing to build its portfolio and reputation.

Later, the esteemed Elizabeth Arden acquired and reintroduced White Shoulders under her own brand, extending the perfume's legacy and ensuring its continued relevance. 

Since 1988, White Shoulders has been distributed by Parfums International Ltd., which has ensured the perfume’s continued availability across a range of products. Today, enthusiasts can find White Shoulders in various formulations, including eau de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne, and parfum. In addition to the classic fragrance, the line includes bath and body wash, satin glide lotions, and dusting powders, each offering a different way to experience the scent.

Over the years, White Shoulders has undergone several reformulations, reflecting shifts in fragrance trends and ingredient availability. Despite these changes, the essence of White Shoulders remains intact, retaining its charm and appeal. The fragrance continues to be appreciated for its classic, timeless qualities, even as it evolves to meet contemporary tastes.

Today, White Shoulders remains a classic fragrance, still being produced and cherished by new generations, a testament to its enduring appeal and the lasting impact of American innovation in the world of perfume.